After breakfast we went to the visitor’s center to get a map and plan our day. We decided to see the old Harmony Borax Works. This was built in 1882 and was operational for only 5 years. Do you remember the 20 mule team Borax commercials? Well this is the real deal! They still have a wagon on display that was used to haul the refined Borax 165 miles across the desert to the railroad town of Mojave. They actually used 20 mules to pull this enormous wagon! There were of course several wagons and the appropriate number of mules to pull them. It took them about 30 days to complete a round trip averaging two miles an hour.
We then drove on a gravel road through the flat part of the Valley floor. We were actually 150 feet below sea level at one point. We gradually increased our elevation by 2000 feet as we made our way to our next destination – Scotty’s Castle.
After about an hour drive, the first thing that came into view among all the rocks was the top of a very tall campanile. It looked so weird and out of place! As we came closer, the entire castle was revealed. It was built in 1922 in the Spanish hacienda style, complete with a very large and ornate swimming pool, balconies, patios, guest rooms and chapel. Our tour guide was a kick in the pants! We really got a feel for the circumstances surrounding the building of this extravagant summer home. It seems the real builder, Mr. Johnson, was a multi millionaire from Chicago who just wanted some peace and quiet and to be left alone. On a visit to Death Valley, Johnson was swindled by a real con artist named Walter Scott (Scotty). Scotty talked Mr. Johnson into investing in his gold mine (a mine that did not exist). This guy Scotty had a real gift for spinning tales and making himself out to be larger than life, but he knew a whole lot of people and hung out in some pretty influential circles. Mr. Johnson, knowing he was duped, couldn't keep from really taking a liking to Scotty. Scotty’s colorful past as a cowboy and working for Buffalo Bill in his Wild West show with the likes of Annie Oakley and Sitting Bull, gave Mr. Johnson a chance to live out his boyhood dreams by befriending such a colorful individual. Scotty went around boasting to everyone about how he was building this castle in the desert, and Mr. Johnson, the real architect, just let the deception continue for his amusement. The friendship worked to both of their advantage and lasted for 25 years! Scotty entertained movie stars, a sitting president of the United States and royalty at “his” castle, while Mr. Johnson, posing as Scotty’s banker, was always in attendance.
On the way back to Furnace Creek, we drove through an area called “The Artists Palette”. The colors of the rock were beautiful! The landscape in the valley seems to change every few miles. From the salt pan to the canyons, then sand dunes to volcanic debris. Truly an adventure around every bend!!
After about 120 miles of exploring, we headed back to our camp for dinner. We had Taco salad provided by Ron and Sue.
Cool! Never knew there was a "castle" out in the desert!
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